> OK, I think it just got done. Took about 4 hours. The
> large table has close to 30 million rows.
>
> I was checking for network activity using netstat -a,
> but did not really see much. Maybe I was looking for
> the wrong things. I was also checking the sl_log_1 and
> sl_log_2 tables on the subscriber, but they were
> empty.

What you could expect to see during the copy is that connections will be
open on both provider and subscriber, executing COPY on one table or
another.  The pg_stat_activity view might show this, if configured to
monitor activity; alternatively, /bin/ps with suitable options should show
processes running COPY...

If you watch the logs (and debug level is, I think, 2 or more) you'll see
a log entry indicating each time that a table completes.

sl_log_1 won't have ANY data copied into it until after the subscription
completes, and that only if you set up the replica as a "forwarding"
node...